How
to Make a Kimono
You
may expect making a kimono to be relatively difficult, after
all there is the obi, dasho, the haori, and a host of other
things that make wearing the kimono (or haori) traditional and
beautiful...but it really isn't all that difficult. Like a
cloak or a vest, it's really almost all straight lines and
boxes. In fact, a simple bathrobe pattern can often be
adjusted simply to make a good kimono pattern. Only the
sleeves would have to be altered. You will need basic sewing
skills and some imagination (it's hard to show these things
over the web), but you can do it if you've ever made any other
article of clothing. I would definately recommend that you
make a test-run out of muslin or something inexpensive first
to make sure you have the measurements right.
A kimono should be worn with an obi as a belt. An Obi is
simply a self-tying belt made of contrasting, accentual
fabric, such as a dark blue obi on a brushed gold kimono. Just
sew a big rectangle of the measurements that will go around
your waist about twice and knot in back to secure it (though
you could pin it instead of tying it if you liked). The obi is
usually about as wide as your stomach (about 8"), just as
you might imagine a medieval bar wench's leather belt. A
thinner cord could go on top of the obi for further color or
contrast. Maybe a black kimono, white obi, and black cord?
Imagine the possibities...
A few notes on fabric: Traditional kimono were obviously made
of silk, embroidered by hand and very expensive. Everyday
kimono could be made of linen, cotton, or other fabrics, once
they became more widely available in Japan. These days, some
lovely bridal satins or rayon blends are available with or
without screen printing that mimics the embroidery of old. Men
usually choose more somber colors, such as brown, dark gold,
or black, while women wore bright jewel tones or soft pastels.
Complicated, flashy patterns are usually reserved for the
young. I find that a simple pattern along the edge, like waves
or small dragons, is elegant and stunning. You may incorporate
metallic threads, tiny crystals, or whatever you like into
your design, as long as you aren't going for the more
traditional look.
The first thing you need to do is measure your body:
Measurement A: Take a measurement from the back of your
neck (where that little round bone sticks out) to your ankles
or to wherever you want the kimono to end. Add about 2-3
inches for hemming.
Measurement B: Measure the width of your back from the
center of your side over the ribcage from one side to the
other. Add about 5 inches for moderate fullness and another 2
for hemming. If you want the kimono to be skinnier or fuller,
adjust this measurement accordingly.
Measurement C: Measure from the top of your shoulder
(where it starts to curve onto your arm) down to about an inch
past your wrist bone. Add another 2 inches for hemming. This
will the length of the sleeve.
Measurement D: Have someone help you with this one.
Hold your arm out and have them measure from the top of your
arm down to about your waist. Add about 2 inches for hemming.
This is the width of your sleeve.
Measurement E: Take measurement B and halve it. This is
the width of the front pieces, but add about 5" to each
side to allow for overlap and modesty. If you are particularly
large-chested or worried about kneeling, etc., add a few more
inches. Measurement A will tell you how long it should be.
These are your front panels to which you will sew the collar
(Measurement F).
Measurement F: Take measurement A and double it.
Measure around your neck and add this number to the doubled A.
Total this. This will become the colllar and front flap. You
will want this piece about 5 inches wide (3" for the
collar, 2" for hem). If you want your collar taller or
shorter, you may adjust this number with impunity.
"What of the armholes" you say? Well, traditional
kimonoes simply inserted the sleeve into the side seam,
causing a narrow shoulder opening and relying upon the
fullness of the sleeve to arrange for comfort. I recommend
laying out the pieces as they would fit together and hollowing
out semi-circles on front and back pieces where the arm would
go from body to sleeve. This will mean you have to sew on a
curve for a small distance, but will make it more comfortable
to wear.
The drawing below gives you a rough idea how things will fit
together. The asterisks represent where your arms would go out
to the side in order to show how the wide sleeves should fall.
The diagonal lines to the side show you the front panels being
spread flat to try and show three dimensions. Clear? Good.
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